One cheese in a pasta is good. Two is magical. But four, well, that’s just sorcery. And trust us when we say the resulting four-cheese maccheroncini at Darlinghurst’s Big Poppa’s is magical. Containing parmigiano reggiano, pecorino romano, stracciatella and cacio di bosco al tartufo (a Tuscan pecorino made from both sheep’s and cow’s milk), the pasta is silky, rich and should not be shared. What you can share, however, is a bottle of something crisp and dry off the 12-page wine list, such as an Italian vermentino or a Californian chardonnay. Oh, and more cheese. Skip dessert and order one of the 19 different cheeses by the slice instead. Cheese dreams are made of this.